The cruise of the Francois
1928
Dunk Island
23rd to 25th May 1928
The Banfields of Dunk Island
In order to appreciate the following events, one must first
learn the history of this tropic isle and the celebrated
beachcomber who inhabited it for 27 years.
Edmund J. Banfield was born in Liverpool in 1852. After
the family migrated to Australia, his father founded a
newspaper at Maryborough in Victoria during the gold
rush period. Edmund later began his own career in
journalism.
In 1882 he took the rather adventurous step of moving
to Townsville. After becoming ill through overwork and
exhaustion, he became captivated by the thought of
living a simple life on Dunk Island with his wife Bertha.
They took up permanent residence on the island in 1897,
living in tents until they built a small hut and later a house.
The climate proved agreeable to a great variety of fruit
and vegetables; bananas, oranges, pawpaws, pineapples,
custard apples, melons, sweet potatoes, maize, strawberries, herbs and even coffee provided food for
the self-sufficient couple. The sea provided oysters and fresh fish. Poultry, cows and goats filled the
need for fresh meat and milk.
Banfield needed additional finance to pay for other necessities, so he began to write again. In colourful
prose, he wrote “Confessions of a Beachcomber”, “My Tropic Isle, “Tropic Days” and “Last Leaves from
Dunk”.
Much more can be read about Ted and Martha and their idyllic life on the island in these books and the
adventures that the couple experienced.
Ted Banfield died of peritonitis on 2nd June 1923. Bertha was alone on Dunk Island with her husband’s
body for three days until she was able to attract the attention of a passing steamer. After making a coffin,
the crew laid Banfield to rest in his own garden. A few years later a stone cairn was erected with the
following inscription from the writer Henry David Thoreau:
Bertha travelled and lived in Queensland, New South Wales and Victoria. Ten years later she died in
Wynnum and her ashes were deposited on Dunk Island beneath the cairn with her husband.
Welcome to Dunk Island
On their arrival at Dunk Island, Francois was boarded by Wylie, the caretaker of the island, who placed
his services as a guide at their disposal.
Mac’s Log describes their first trip ashore:
© Copyright 2011 Julianne Dodds
Did You Know?
“Went ashore after lunch. Found Professor Goddard with his wife and party of friends
on a visit to the Island which he is buying to establish a Marine Biological Station.
Treated us very hospitably sending off bread and fresh milk. Everyone charmed beyond
words at the beauty of the island, the most picturesque views of the coconut palms.
‘The finest island on the Coast.’”
Professor Goddard proved to be an excellent guide as he showed the party around the island. He
demonstrated the fertility of the soil in which he hoped to establish a banana plantation. They saw
how the poultry rushed the coconut pulp as food and the professor claimed it was the ideal egg
production food. Then he led them to the rock pool in the gorge at the back of the house. The fern
covered chasm was 50 feet deep, with a never failing, babbling stream of the purest and softest water
imaginable. The gloomy coolness was covered with luxuriant trees that met over the stream and
hundreds of birds sang in this isolated sanctuary. A little rock dam formed a pool from which domestic
water was pumped to several points and on the lower side of the barrier was a naturally formed
bathing pool, deep enough to lie down in and get a good soaking.
The professor was concerned about the ‘booze’ and poker parties that would occasionally visit the
island, bringing their guns and showing lack of concern with the use of fire. Left behind would be
bottles and cans, littering the island that Banfield had loved. Proposals had been made to build a
motel on the island and open it to day-trippers, but Professor Goddard felt that would have been
sacrilege for such pure and idyllic surroundings. Goddard’s intention was to preserve Dunk Island
for all time as a marine biological station and experimental horticultural farm.
Short, with piercing eyes and an unruly forelock, Goddard had enormous physical energy and a wide
range of enthusiasms. An incisive and forthright lecturer, he was popular both with students and
extramural audiences. Goddard died in 1948, while setting up a marine research station at Heron
Island on the eve of his retirement. [4]
His plan for Dunk Island would have pleased Ted Banfield as he and Bertha had become active
campaigners for the preservation of the bird life on Dunk and surrounding islands.
Francois remained at anchor the next day and a party took out the dinghy to troll for mackerel. Fresh
water was carried from the island to fill up the main tank and they were able to take a pleasant bath
and wash clothes. They took their sails and awnings ashore in the launch and hung them out to dry
on trees.
The ship’s log describes their day -
“10:30am. ‘S S Innisfail’ dropped stores.
Weather variable. Nice patches of sunlight but mostly cloudy with several showers.
Present of milk and fruit from the party at house.
Wylie, the Custodian, kindly baked a batch of bread for us. Very good.”
The following morning, at 9:20am, Francois hove up and proceeded through Hinchinbrook Channel to
Lucinda Point in fine weather.
At 11:20am they passed Goold Island and continued under steam with a light morning breeze and a
moderate sea.
At mid-afternoon, they dropped anchor off the west end of Lucinda Point Wharf in 4 3/4 fathoms 300
yards from end of wharf.
Before dawn the next day, a black, drizzly morning, they hove up at high tide and crossed the bar. Five
hours later they came to anchor off the Aboriginal Station at Palm Island.
“If a man does not keep pace with his companions,
perhaps it is because he hears a different drummer.
Let him step to the music which he hears.”
Dunk Island 1928
The palm avenue on
Dunk Island 1928
The author on Dunk Island
in 1998
S S Innisfail off Dunk Island
1928
Drying the washing on
Dunk Island 1928
Purtaboi Island off Dunk
Island. 1928
Second path leading up to
Banfield’s house. 1928
Returning from Dunk
Island. 1928
The party from Francois on the verandah of
Banfield’s house in 1928. Williams collection.
Dunk Island
In 1934 Dunk Island began its new life
as a tourist destination.
During World War II the island was
annexed by the Royal Australian Air
Force and secret radar equipment was
installed near the island’s highest
point, Mt Kootaloo.
Over the years the island has changed
hands many times and the resort has
grown in size and amenities.
Tropical Cyclone Yasi passed over
Bedarra and Dunk Island on 2nd and
3rd February 2011. The cyclone
unfortunately caused significant
damage to both properties, which have
been forced to close temporarily in
order to repair the damage.
Approaching Hinchinbrook Island
in the yacht Francois. 1928.
Williams Collection
Hinchinbrook Island
Protected since 1932, Hinchinbrook
Island is one of Australia's largest
island national parks (39,900 hectares)
In 1942, a US B24 Liberator bomber
crashed into a mountain on the island,
killing all 12 people on board.
After World War II commercial
crocodile hunting in the area, nearly
reduced numbers to the point of
extinction by the 1960s.
The 2008 movie Nim's Island starring
Jodi Foster was partly filmed on the
island.
Mystery shipwreck
After cyclone Yasi in February 2011, a
30 metre long boat was unearthed on a
beach at Hinchinbrook Island. It is
believed the wrecked vessel had been
buried in the sand for more than 130
years. Timber samples have been sent
for identification in an effort to
formally identify the wreck.
Early Tourism on the Reef
On 25th May 1928 an advertisement
appeared in the ‘Queenslander’
newspaper. A 24 day cruise to one of
the ‘Wonders of the World’ by Thos.
Cook & Sons offered a trip “off the
beaten track” up the rivers Daintree
and Bloomfield through densely jungle-
clad mountains. On the Great Barrier
Reef passengers could drift across
coral reefs in a glass bottom boat. The
trip was advertised as suitable for
scientists, marine biologists, fishing
enthusiasts, conchologists, men with
leisure time and tired business men.